Baltimore or Bust

The alarm clock went off at 5:20 a.m. Even though darkness greeted us, it was up and at'em for us. Dogs walked and fed, coffee perking, at 5:45 we left the dock of the Great Kills Yacht Club in Staten Island, out into New York Harbor and then the Atlantic, cruising just a mile offshore of New Jersey. Finally, light began to appear and we watched a glorious sunrise. The ocean was quite nice actually.  Again, the captain called it right!  West winds at 10-15 mph, 3-1/2 footers with 11 second duration (we normally like to see 2 seconds per foot). But it was chilly, so we opted for driving in the pilothouse.

The forecast for Tuesday was less favorable, plus the Baltimore TrawlerFest was looming and we were running out of time to get there, so John and I discussed the option of continuing on to Baltimore that night. I do like sleep, don't get me wrong; but I'm happy to forgo some in lieu of a more comfortable ride. The Delaware Bay is not only an open body of water, but it's shallow depths can make it extremely choppy. So we decided to stop in Cape May for fuel and dog walk, and keep going. After a long day, the girls were happy to be on land! Plus they always enjoy barking at – and trying to chase - the cats that live at Utsch's Marina. When we started down the Cape May Canal towards Delaware Bay it was dusk. The Delaware brought total darkness. Unfortunately the tide was against us, with 2-3 knots against us, seriously slowing us up and making the trip longer than necessary. John took the first watch. I awoke just after we entered the C&D canal, and he turned over the helm to me. Thanks to good ol' Wikipedia, here is some history about the canal:

The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal (C&D Canal) is a 14 mile long, 450 foot wide and 40 foot deep ship canal that cuts across the states of Maryland and Delaware, in the United States. It connects the waters of the Delaware River with those of the Chesapeake Bay (the mouth of the Susquehanna River) and the Port of Baltimore. Construction began in the early 1820s with some 2,600 men digging and hauling dirt from the ditch. Laborers toiled with pick and shovel at the immense construction task, working for an average daily wage of 75 cents. The swampy marshlands along the canal's planned route proved a great impediment to progress as workers continuously battled slides along the soft slopes of the "ditch" being cut. It was 1829 before the C&D Canal Company could, at last, announce the waterway "open for business". The near-$2.5 million construction cost made it one of the most expensive canal projects of its time.
In 1919 the canal was purchased by the federal government for $2.5 million and designated the "Intra-coastal Waterway Delaware River to Chesapeake Bay, Delaware and Maryland". Included were six bridges plus a railroad span owned by the Pennsylvania Railroad. They were replaced during the 1920s by four vertical lift spans and a new railroad bridge.
Responsibility for operating, maintaining and improving the waterway was assigned to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Wilmington District. By 1927 the eastern entrance at Delaware City had been relocated several miles south at Reedy Point, Delaware. All locks (except the one at Delaware City) were removed and the waterway was converted to a sea-level operation at 12 feet (3.7 m) deep and 90 feet (27 m) wide. These improvements cost $10 million. Two stone jetties at the new eastern entrance were completed in 1926.
The "new" canal opened in May 1927 with great celebration, yet plans already were underway for further expansion as the sizes of ships and amounts of cargo continued to increase. The Philadelphia District took over operation of the canal in 1933. Between 1935 and 1938 the channel was again improved — deepened to 27 feet (8.2 m) and widened to 250 feet (76 m) at a cost of nearly $13 million

Cargo ships of all sizes, tankers, container-carrying vessels, barges accompanied by tugboats, and countless recreational boats create a steady flow of traffic.

Now it was John's turn to rest. Despite our state-of-the-art radar, I sat upright in the chair my entire watch, completely focused on what was going on. We have seen many barges and container ships go down this canal and I did not want to encounter one. About half way - with 7 miles to go - fog set in. Oh great! Fortunately it wasn't so heavy that I couldn't see the dimly lighted banks of the canal. I gave thanks for electronic navigation and stayed focused on that as my guide. Then, as the canal widened into Chesapeake Bay, the lighted markers increased, and navigating became a little more challenging. I decided it was time to wake John for some assistance, although I hated to do it. He got us through that area, went back to sleep, and I took the helm again. The Bay was choppy but not too bad. The wind was from the south at 15 mph which made for a bit of a sloppy ride. We arrived in Baltimore Harbor shortly after sunrise, then dropped the anchor, lowered the dinghy, took the dogs ashore, and hit the hay. It had been a long 27 hours. We were tired.

East River Daughter Siting

We cast off our lines from Essex Island Marina at exactly 9 am to hit the current/tides just right.  Down the Connecticut River and out in to the (Long Island) Sound.  It was still breezy but out of the east, 5-10 with 1 footers, and chilly so we stayed in our cosy pilothouse.  The captain of this boat is amazing.  He knows exactly when and what, in order to make the ride the most comfortable for his crew!  And every captain knows how important it is to keep the crew happy!

Bound again for Port Washington on the north shore of Long Island, we picked up our mooring there around 5.  With the dinghy all cleaned up for the Newport show, and Baltimore TrawlerFest coming up, we didn't want to mess it up again, so we called the launch to take first mate and pups ashore for a long walk. (But having provisioned in Essex, it killed me not to need to go to that fantastic grocery store there!) 

The next morning A&R (that we met at the Newport boat show) flew down from Boston for a sea-trial.  It was a nice opportunity to get to know them better, and we appreciated the effort they made to meet up with us.  They were impressed with the boat and the ride, and why not?  What's not to like?

Upon their departure a few hours later, we left Port Washington for a short ride to World's Fair Marina.  I wrote something in our 2010 blog about this marina which is right next to Laguardia Airport.  We also stayed there last year during Hurricane Irene.  It's a very protected spot, with floating docks, and high pilings.  Plus it's easy to get into the City from there (#7 train takes 45 minutes).  The docks and power are not in the best shape, but the staff is amazing, and are even getting to know us (the dockhand commented that we had a different color boat this year!)  Joy came out from the City that afternoon, and we walked to a fabulous - and authentic! - Mexican restaurant for a late lunch.  John had seen it featured on Guy Fieri's tv show, "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives".


Joy left at 11 the next morning so that she could get back into the City for her 1:00 tennis practice.  She plays on a couple of teams and they practice at several different locations around the City and it's boroughs.  That day she was to practice at some courts on the East River.  What a coincidence!  We would be going right by them during her practice time.  We made an arrangement with her to toot our horn as we passed.  She told us the courts were under the Williamsburg Bridge and that it could be noisy, but John reassured her that she would hear the horns!

As we left the marina, the planes were flying right over us.  And I mean, right over us!  Meantime, we were against the current as we headed down the East River, sometimes as much as 5 knots!!  So much for that nice push we had going up the River a few weeks ago.  These pictures below don't really capture the turbulent water at Hell's Gate, but I do believe you get the idea of the force of the current passing by these buoys which are just off the East River Drive.

The Coast Guard was broadcasting a "security zone" outside the United Nations as it prepares for the UN General Assembly (when 120 world leaders and their entourages gather) this week.Between them and the NYPD, they were all doing a good job of keeping pleasure craft away. 

Approaching the Williamsburg Bridge we got our binoculars out and searched for tennis courts.  We were probably 100 feet offshore when we spotted them.  John tooted the horn a couple of times.  Suddenly we saw a couple of tennis racquets waving through the air!!  Another toot!!  Mission accomplished, thanks to the Kahlenberg airhorns!!  I have to say, it was pretty cool to be passing by on the boat and waving to her onshore.  And in her phone call to us later in the day, she said she and her friends thought it was pretty cool too!  (It's always nice when your kids think stuff you do is "cool"!) 

Leaving Manhattan (and the new Freedom Tower) behind us, we ended the day at a small yacht club marina in Great Kills on Staten Island. 

Where are we now?

Our 10^th Newport show completed, we were rejoicing in the gorgeous weather we'd had. Some years we've not been so fortunate, as they've brought high winds and accompanying side-ways falling rain. Not fun. During the shows we always move off the boat into a hotel, and so when the show was over at 5 on Sunday afternoon, we were happy to return to the boat and settle back in to life aboard. That evening we shared a nice relaxing dinner with some of our good marine-trade friends.

The Newport and Annapolis shows are both temporary. That is, the docks are built around the boats as they arrive, and are removed as the boats depart. (Actually it's quite something to observe and participate in.) We were last in and, consequently, on Monday morning, we were first out. The weather couldn't have been better, and we hit the tides and currents just right which boosted our speed almost 10%.  Departing Newport, we headed back to Essex, Connecticut. Our dear friend, and Northeast/MidAtlantic Nordic Tug dealer, Ben Wilde, offered us some dock space there. (Thank you Ben!) We jumped on his offer since the weather forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday was ugly.......mega rain and winds at 30 mph with gusts over 45. Ugh. 

Safely tied up at Essex Island Marina just after lunch, we sat back and enjoyed the rest of the day, in recovery mode from a busy show.

This marina is an island and they provide a ferry to transport the patrons back and forth to the "mainland" and town of Essex (a mere 150 ft!) 

Monday night we were treated to dinner at the home of the marine-trade friends referred to above, which also included a reunion with other friends who own a small boat company. Tuesday morning we were able to borrow their car and head to the grocery to provision. I never appreciate the use of a car as much as when I'm on the boat and want to do big grocery shopping! Errands completed, we waited for “the weather”. The rains never materialized, but the winds sure did. They picked around 4 and got more intense as the evening wore on. The bimini frame was shaking like crazy, and the boat was banging into the dock. When it was time to take the dogs ashore for their before-bed outing, M.E. was afraid she'd blow away! There were even swells in the approximately 150 foot wide harbor we're in!  But when I awoke in the night the wind had ceased. I looked out the porthole and saw that the water was perfectly still. It was so weird how it suddenly changed. Welcome to the world of weather-watching! All was well with the boat, by the way.  These Krogen Express boats are so soundly built, they withstand all kinds of adverse conditions! :)

We've spent the last few days here, waiting for things to calm down on Long Island Sound. Plus we just like it here! And who doesn't mind being tied to a dock for a few days? While we've been here we've become acquainted with the owners of the Kadey-Krogen 58 exhibited at the Newport show. Great folks. We went out for pizza with them last night. We're going to depart tomorrow morning, and continue west. The Jersey shore (no, not the tv show!) looms ahead. We are diligently watching the wind and wave forecasts.

Newport Boat Show

We're going to sign off for a few days.  The Newport boat show - the first show of the season - starts tomorrow, and we'll be busy meeting and greeting!  We were told that there are 50% fewer boats here than 4 years ago.  Wow.  We are grateful that Krogen Express Yachts LLC is in excellent shape, selling boats and building more.  And we are grateful for our wonderful family of owners.

While we're tooting our own horn, let me just add here - on a personal note - that I continue to be awed by the work ethic and attention to detail of my two "boys", John and Bob.  John is hard at work on the boat here in Newport while Bob has been tending to things in Florida, getting a boat ready for it's new owners.

 We'll reunite this evening, get a good nights sleep and be all set to go in the morning.  The boat is (nearly) ready, the weather forecast is good, and we're fired up!

This is our show boat on a mooring in Newport, taken a couple of weeks ago. 

Nantucket

We had a wonderful time in Nantucket, the second home of relatives and dear friends. From Newport it's a nice easy jaunt of 4-1/2 hours at fast cruise (15 kts), or at a slower speed of 9.5 kts in 7+ hours. Originally a booming whaling port, Nantucket has been named a National Historic District and has architecturally changed little since the 17th century, as seaside cottages and old-fashioned lamps still line its streets, many of which are “paved” in cobblestones. Some refer to it as “adult Disneyworld”! Chic shops, unique architecture, gorgeous gardens, beautiful people.  All in all a very magical spot.  If you're ever cruising in the northeast, for sure add this to your “absolutely must see” list. 

 

The pictures speak for themselves! 

One morning we left our mooring and headed to the dinghy dock for our morning walk.  This particular dinghy dock runs parallel to the beach and is attached by a ramp to a very long dock which runs perpendicular to the beach.  As we were pulling up to the dock, our dog M.E. spotted some ducks swimming away from the shore.  She jumped off the dinghy, up the ramp, down the long dock, onto the beach, and started swimming after the ducks.  She got farther and farther from the shore - a total swim of about 150 feet! (But fortunately, because of the configuration of the docks, she was actually swimming back toward where we were.)   It was hilarious and nerve-wracking at the same time.  She saw those ducks and took off, into the water.  She kept swimming and swimming, her short legs paddling away, and her little head bobbing over the water.  I was getting nervous that she would wear out.  But she finally swam back to us at the dock and John pulled her out of the water.  Silly dog.

This is the mooring field in Nantucket harbor with the church steeple in the background.  

And Brandt Point lighthouse on our left as

we departed the harbor to return to Newport. 

Speaking of provisioning........do you ever consider how long a bar of soap or a roll of paper towel lasts? Two weeks? Four weeks? Have you ever wondered how many cups you can get out of a bag or tin of coffee?  And what about water consumption. Have you ever thought about what would happen if you only had 370 gallons of water and had to use it wisely until you could obtain more? Over the years of boating and provisioning, I've become more aware of how many rolls of toilet paper and how many bottles of blue cheese dressing (John and Bob's favorite) to stock for a 2-1/2 mth boat trip (and how much water I'm using when I wash dishes or take a shower). Although I will readily admit that I don't have a 100% record! No way! We haven't even cracked open the numerous packages of popcorn I brought along, but I did have to purchase more soap today!  

Newport, Rhode Island

Newport is another very special spot.  Tons of charm.  Tons of history.  Tons of absolutely gorgeous sailboats.  And also tons of tourists!  Nonetheless, we always enjoy stopping here.  Our friends - and Krogen Express owners - let us borrow their mooring.  After we were settled, we went to their house for a catch-up visit and take-out Thai dinner.  We have such a great group of owners!  It's like a family.  We cherish and appreciate each and everyone of them.  Many of them have been to our home, and in turn, we have been to their homes for dinners and overnights.  This particular couple have just shipped their boat across the Atlantic to England where they will begin their several year trek through Europe to the Med.  Very exciting! 

This was the view from our mooring, which included the "Nantucket Lightship".  Here's a bit of history about it:  The NANTUCKET LIGHTSHIP, the last lightship in service in the US until 1985, is one of the most unique luxury classic charter yachts on the water today.  The mission of the Lightship, as lifesaving mission, was to stand resolute regardless of the peril and guide all to safe haven.  The WLV-612 is one of a proud line of Nantucket Lightships which were known as the Guardian Angels of the North Atlantic from 1854 to 1983; it was the Nantucket Lightship and not the Statue of Liberty which first greeted mariners and immigrants to America. 

Built in 1950 at Curtis Bay, Maryland by the United States Coast Guard Yard for $500,000, Lightship 612 was the last ship to serve a full tour of duty on the Nantucket Shoals station and was also the last US lightship in commission. In 1975 Lightship Ambrose, the Nantucket's sister ship, was renamed Lightship Nantucket II and the two ships spelled one another, relieving each other approximately every 21 days.

At 2:30 a.m. on December 20, 1983 the 613 relieved 612 until 8:00 a.m. then was relieved by a Large Navigational Buoy, therefore 613 was last Lightship on station in US and on Nantucket Station.
In December 1983 the Lightship 613 was sold to the New England Historic Seaport to become a museum ship in Boston and Lightship 612 was reassigned to cutter duty.

Finally, after being decommissioned on March 29, 1985 and ending the 165 year era of United States Lightship service, Lightship 612 was sold to the Boston Educational Marine Exchange and shortly thereafter was taken over by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. In March 2000, she was purchased by William and Kristen Golden, restored as the only fully operational Lightship in the United States and converted to a luxury yacht which was berthed at Rowes Wharf in Boston. In the summer of 2007 she was available for charter in Nantucket harbor and Newport. The Nantucket Lightship WLV612 was chartered for one year by the 5 star Delamar Hotel in Greenwich Connecticut in 2008, served as the mothership for the New York Yacht Club summer cruise and was chartered from November 2008 through May 31, 2009 at The North Cove Marina at the World Financial Center in Manhattan, New York. During the summers of 2009 and 2010, the WLV612 was docked in Martha's Vineyard on Charter in Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, Newport and Long Island Sound, returning in the fall of 2010 for charters Newport. 

 (Sorry, it's a little blurry.)  

Our 3 day stay in Newport included a treasured visit from my sister who lives in Boston, and lunch with our friends from Essex (mentioned in the previous posting) who had captained a 60+ foot motoryacht up for a two day visit to Newport.  We also took lots of walks, did some shopping, and made the all-important trek to the local Stop and Shop!   

It was our intention to leave Newport on Monday, Labor Day, and make the short trip to Martha's Vineyard and then proceed to Nantucket on Tuesday.  But the forecast for Tuesday was for high winds and big seas, so we decided to go all the way to Nantucket on Monday.  We have found that it works to our advantage to respect large, open bodies of water such as Buzzards Bay, Vineyard Sound and Nantucket Sound!!  On the way, we passed the Elizabeth Islands (picture above). Located at the outer edge of Buzzards Bay and north of Martha's Vineyard, the Elizabeth Islands are privately owned by the (Steve) Forbes family.  The east wind made for a messy ride; but we reached our destination - Nantucket Harbor - mid-afternoon.  

Here are some pictures of the approach into Nantucket Harbor.  We followed the high-speed ferry in, passed Brandt Point lighthouse, and easily grabbed our mooring line.